21 January 2007

My place...


my bed, with some nice reminders of home on the wall – actually this picture was added much later, when I finally put them up


my desk


the balcony, closet and clothes rack – apparently I only felt like hanging one thing up


my little bathroom


le séjour – the living room


the little kitchen


and the note she left me this morning

20 January 2007

Day One

So I just put on some Phoenix, because the Viva Voce song I had stuck in my head was too melancholy, and that’s not what I’m going for right now. I’ve only been here for about 12 hours, only four of which I’ve been awake for, and it’s already very clear that I am in a completely different world, with seemingly more than just an ocean separating me from the one I know. Ugh, which sounds so pathetically cliché but in my defense I’m reminded of Chuck Klosterman, who somewhere in Sex, Drugs, and Cocoa Puffs said that the most real things are cliché: when you find yourself in situations and emotional states that are typically described over and over again in the same simplistic language, such as when in love, or after a break up, or… when arriving in a new, foreign place you’re about to spend five months in… The only words you can seem to find to express yourself are those very ones used in Hallmark cards and boy band and emo songs, cheesy and uninventive as they may otherwise seem.

So anyway. It’s very strange and disorienting, much as I’d expected and been told it would be. There is good news and bad news about the situation as I see it thus far. The first bit of bad news, first because it’s probably the worst (though honestly I’m sure there are much worse things), is that there’s no Internet chez moi. Hmm. The good news is that my host mother seems nice, and it looks like a nice neighborhood, and I do indeed have a room and bathroom to myself. The other sort of discouraging news is that, at first, she seems a little… touchy… a little particular and a little more French than I’d have liked, in that she seems to like her own way, and explains things at least three times… She gave me a little crash course of practicalities, which included how to use the key, general stuff about meals, going out, etc. The key stuff all seems easy enough, but she took a lot of time to show me and show me again, and watch me try it myself… not in the nurturing making-sure-you’re-okay way; seemingly more so in a neurotic, high-strung way. But maybe this is just the French disposition, naturally less easy going than I’m used to. I can’t help thinking of my mom, though, and how easy-going and wonderful she’d be to anyone staying with her, and how much at home she would make them feel, and how much she’d smile and laugh. Sigh.

Hailey had told me she’d followed up with an ancien (former) CUPA student we spoke to at our pre-orientation session at Georgetown and asked for his family’s info since he’d spoken so highly of them and his experience… she requested them on her housing info sheet and wrote that she thought it would be a good match. That was a good idea. I hate to say, I’m wishing the other thing had worked out, with the family I’d initially been placed with, and thinking the neighborhood would have been better, I’d have been closer to a métro, having kids around would actually be nice (at least it’d be louder and there’d be life, and perhaps I’d have less of an obligation to commit to dinner plans the night before), and maybe they’d have had internet. I never imagined not having access could make this much of a difference. Really, I was imagining myself here logging on, sending a few emails, going on AIM and talking to a few people, looking into Skype and into setting up a blog, and looking at my program info… how different I would feel! Seriously, I think my whole temperament and outlook would change and I wouldn’t at all be looking at pictures or avoiding sad music or yearning for American life… Well, I’m going to speak with the coordinator, who seems very nice and understanding (Nathalie), and see if there isn’t anything that can be done. On va voir (we shall see).

Anyway, back to my arrival… I was approached by someone asking me if I needed a taxi, so I said I did and where I was going. I actually understood all that he asked me… Just in making conversation, I apologized that my French wasn’t great and that I was an American student, and he said “Oh, you’re American? Your French is very good!” Ça m’a plait beaucoup (that made me pretty happy). I asked him what would be a good gift for my famille d’acceuil (host family), and he suggested chocolates or flowers. Good, because I’d bought some kind of cheesy New York chocolates at JFK after they threw out the Crabtree & Evelyn lotion-y gift thing that I’d stupidly put in my carry-on. Oh well. She seemed to like the chocolates. She said they would go well with the café (here café can mean the drink or the place).

I arrived at 32 rue Robert Lindet, where the driver helped me in with my bags (well, certainly should, after I paid him 80 euros!) and I buzzed Madame on the interphone. She came down and sent me up in the elevator, which was so classically French and tiny, I barely fit in there with all my stuff. She took the stairs, to the deuxième étage, which to Americans is the third floor. They start counting one floor up from the ground floor (rez-de-chaussée).

I got in and finally, still all smiles, reached out my hand for an attempt at a more formal hello, and said “Enchanté,” which I had been told is the usual way of saying “Nice to meet you”, but she looked at me kind of strangely, so maybe that’s not what you say. Anyway, though she smiled and moved quickly and was energetic enough, as I started to explain before, the excitement on her part seemed a bit more nervous than warm and inviting. She showed me around the apartment, and excused it’s clutteredness, and explained that her parents were moving out of their apartment into a maison de retraite (retirement home), so there were pieces of their furniture scattered around. I have my own bathroom, but as French bathrooms are, it’s literally a bath room – a shower and a sink. It’s pretty tiny, and the showerhead is on a cord and doesn’t hang up or fix onto anything—I have to hold it—so that’ll be an adjustment. The toilette is on the other side of the apartment, in another closet-like little room next to the kitchen (though when I say other side of the apartment, well, it’s not that far). It’s actually pretty cute. The place isn’t cute in a French, Amélie kind of way, nor as adorable as the flat in the old apartment building with the formidable door (and without an elevator) that I stayed in with Dad and Liz and Zach in the quartier Latin several years ago, but it’s still French (read: small) and cute. And it smells French too, or at least foreign – not only does the place have its own smell to it that’s not overbearing but strong in the sense that it’s identifiable; nothing like the airy, fruity, breezy, or even musty scents of Long Island homes that I’m used to, but there was also a pungent, interestingly spicy smell of food cooking in the kitchen, where she was preparing a meal for lunch. She said I could eat with them (her daughter was arriving with her husband and son), or sleep and eat dinner with them at around 8. So after she sat down and explained the few rules she has (she said she’d just tell me these few things, and otherwise it’s comme tu veux – as I want), I slept. I actually wasn’t that tired, I didn’t think, but I was out like a light when my head hit the pillow.

So the basic rules/important things include: don’t lose the key (because then she’d have to change the whole system and there’d be a very large abonnement), try not to take long showers because the water’s expensive, don’t use the phone (my program had told her all the students will get portables – cell phones – because the telephone in France is expensive)… see a pattern here?... , no boys at the house at all, since she once had a problem with that, and if une copine (girl friend) wants to come by, I have to ask her permission first. For dinner, she provides me with six meals per week (as the program says), so she suggested samedi (Saturday) as the day I find my own meal, as she typically goes out Saturdays. I am to tell her a day in advance if I won’t be home for dinner the next night, as she knows sometimes I will want to eat with my friends, etc. – that way she can plan what to buy, as each morning she shops for the day’s meals. So different from how in the U.S. we do huge supermarket runs for weeks of meals at a time!

After that I went to sleep - when I woke up it was 7, and I came out and said hello. She explained that her daughter and husband had gone out to the cinéma, so we weren’t going to eat together as she’d thought – she asked if I was hungry, and I was, so she said she’d call me in ten minutes. I met the little baby, Thomas, who is adorable. In ten minutes as I was looking up what le veau is (veal, as I’d thought – she’d offered me a choice between that and a tarte – like a quiche – and I took the tarte), she called me to dinner, and she placed our two trays on the table in the séjour (living room), where we ate while watching TV. I wonder if that’s typical or just her. There wasn’t much on besides commercials; elle n’a que six chaînes (she only gets six channels). I didn’t care, though – I was interested in my food, and in talking to her. The tarte had tomatoes, goat cheese, and something else in it, and was delicious. We each had a small salad, a bottle of water and a glass, and a yogurt, which I figured would be eaten at the end, so I waited for her to eat hers and then ate mine. She had a glass of wine too, which I’m surprised she didn’t offer me. Not that I mind that much –but, I don’t know, thinking of all this now, it just doesn’t seem like the ideal situation/warm family I was looking for, but we’ll see, and I’ll manage, anyway. I think of how much worse it could be.

It’s very easy, as I’ve been told and that I can now understand, to shy away from the idealistic initial desire to immerse yourself in a country and language and lifestyle completely new, and instead wish nothing other than to be with your family and friends, or to think about nothing other than how things were, in my case, less than 24 hours ago. Already I’m imagining driving along Jerusalem Avenue yesterday, in my mom’s car with my Winter Mix blasting from the CD player, driving in to Eckerd to pick up necessities for my trip, or stopping by Dunkin Donuts to pick up a blueberry latté via the drive-through. I realize that sitting here in beautiful Paris and dreaming about a crappy Dunkin Donuts drive-thru is more than just a little sad, but, the general sentiment is of course understandable, no? Just having been in a state of running my own life, being responsible for myself, deciding what I needed to do and hopping in the car and doing it, talking to my friends several times a day and coordinating plans… well, you don’t realize what kind of life you’re in until you leave it behind.

I can’t even believe I was on the phone talking to my parents and friends just before I took off, in the waiting room and on the plane – even that seems lightyears away. Ah, I wish I could just pick up my phone… the first need I feel is for contact, to speak, to connect with my other world… I mentioned to Madame a few times using my phone card to call my parents, but she thinks it will cost her money and explains, again, that using the phone is expensive in France and she does not want to pay an abonnement (sum) for it. I also really want to get out and walk around a bit, at least get a slightly larger glimpse of the world I’m living in than just this small apartment, and more importantly try to find an internet café, or a payphone, something – but she said she would prefer I stayed in tonight. As she reiterated for about the fifth or sixth time, she will take me around tomorrow and show me the quartier (neighborhood), and look for the internet café (cyber-café) her friend told her of (though she’s not sure it’ll be open on Sunday, as most commercial establishments aren’t—all the more reason I see for me to try and check it out tonight…). Ah. And it’s late here, 10:22 pm, but I’ve just slept 8 hours and am awake and… Ooh! Just got my hearing in my left ear back! …and, what better time to get out and stretch my legs and see the Paris night? And search for un moyen (means) of contact? Housebound. That’s not the word I want. House… I don’t know…. and stir-crazy, until tomorrow morning.

Listened to: Phoenix, Iron & Wine/Calexico, The Shins, The Long Winters, Jason Collett, Voxtrot, The Elected, Rilo Kiley.

Goodnight, pavement puddle stars… Ooh, but it’s only tear gas tears…

19 January 2007

Bienvenue à la blogosphère…

BONJOUR tout le monde! I am now a blogger. I don’t know how I feel about that. But regardless, rather than sending mass emails to everyone I know, I’m setting this up to leave a trail of my five forthcoming months in Paris – as much for myself to have a souvenir of sorts, as for some friends and family at home to see what I’m up to. I apologize in advance for uninteresting or too-much-detail posts. Please comment if that happens.

Disclaimer: My first couple entries are quite long, but this won’t be the norm – I’m keeping a journal at the same time, and will occasionnally paste parts of it here, but for the most part will keep this mostly events and interesting things-related, rather than like a livejournal.

Alors! Il faut commencer…